Sand and Sun: Ecuador’s Salinas

Guayaquil, where I live, lies along the Duale River and not too far from Ecuador's Pacific Coast. When things get hot, the locals head to either Salinas or Playas. Salinas is more upscale, Playas more for those looking for a closer and cheaper getaway, but in any case there is some great sun and sand experiences in store. I'll talk about Salinas first, and look at Playas in another post.

Salinas is a small city on the south-central coast of Ecuador, and it's a tourist hot-spot for lots of reasons.  

The main attractions in Salinas are the beaches. There are several excellent stretches of gorgeous white sand beaches all along the city's coastlines and there are many high-rise condos and resorts right along with them. You can stay right on the beach in style, to hit the sand every day you're there. Some of the hotels are pricey but you should be able to find some beach-front accommodations to fit most budgets.

Actually, Salinas kind of reminds me of Cartegena, beach-wise, minus the prostitutes and uber-aggressive street vendors. It has long stretches of high-rise condos backed up right to the sand, making a stay an almost religious experience in sun-kissed, drunken debauchery. Okay, that's an exaggeration, since lots of families come here too.

If sunbathing isn't your thing, you can get active at the beaches instead. The surfing is excellent in and around Salinas, and people come from all over to ride the waves. One of the beaches just south of the city, Punta Carnero is especially famous for its waves and many competitions are held there. Add in loads of deep sea fishing, whale watching excursions along with the usual rounds of para-sailing and paragliding

But if you want to stay within the city, check out San Lorenzo Beach. It's the largest one in Salinas and right in the middle of the city. Farther out on the peninsula, you can find Playa del Mar Bravo and Playa de Chipipe. Walk along the busy streets or the beach boardwalks and see the life of Salinas bustling around you. I love to go on some long, slow runs in the morning.

And while I mentioned it before, I'll emphasize it again, there is also some excellent whale-watching outside of Salinas. We are talking world class whale watching in Salinas, since many breeds like Humpback Whales and others migrate right past Salinas twice each year. Several tour groups will offer boat charters to get you out on the water and on the lookout for the next pod of whales to crest the surface. If you stay closer to shore, you can take in some snorkeling or scuba diving. The water is just buzzing with activity - and yes, it is warm water!

By the way, when I go to Salinas I practically live at the Cevecheria. This is an area about two blocks in back of San Lorenzo Beach with two solid square blocks of restaurants all selling ceviche in all of its forms: my wife loves shrimp, but I love Ceviche Mixto - a dish filled with fish, shrimp, squid, and about every other sea creature they can find that day. It is normally served with popcorn or patacones (fried plantains) or plantain chips. Drink with a glass of Pilsener or Club, two of the local beers, and you'll be feeling good.

The Museum of the Great Peninsula is one of the larger attractions in Salinas (after the beaches of course). It's also called the Siglo XXI Museum (21st Century Museum), though it does hold a lot of ancient artifacts, not just contemporary exhibits.

When you're finished with all the sights and activities in Salinas, you can set out on a road-trip up the coast along the famous Ruta del Sol that goes up to Manta from Salinas. Lots of small villages and beaches along the way, as well as the Machalilla National Park. Along the way is the tiny seaside village of Montanita - which has become an Australian surfer hangout because of the waves there. The beaches tend to be stoney here, but with consistently great waves. After playing in the water there are thatch-roofed dives like the Wipe Out to eat ceviche, drink beer, and share the events of the day.

It's easy enough to get to Salinas if you want to add this city to your travel plans. There are major roads coming from Guayaquil, and the General Ulpiano Paez Airport is right in Salinas if you prefer to fly in although commercial service is extremely limited. Most people do drive, and the scenery between the cities is stunning.