Well, I guess I am not the only one who has found the Hostal de Monasterio in Cuenca, Ecuador, to be lacking. If you missed it, I made the following post about my reservation fiasco. I showed up and no one at the Hostel was there. Now, I've heard from another person that she had the very same experience.
Bea told me that several weeks ago she also had a reservation for Monastario for herself and some family members. Just like me, when they arrived the place was closed. Folks around the place told her that it was often closed when it was not busy. Just like me, her group ended up finding rooms at another place nearby.
The good news is unlike me, they didn't get locked inside the building by a wayward locksmith. Still, my advice from before applies. Make sure you call to verify everything is set for your reservation, and that everything will be open when you are scheduled to arrive/
Monday, July 29, 2013
Thursday, July 25, 2013
Brazil Students Win AirBus Fly Your Ideas Challenge
I always love it when students do good, and a team of students from the University of Sao Paulo in Brazil just won 30,000 Euros in the third annual Fly Your Ideas Challenge by Airbus. The team Paulistas took on the challenge of designing a new, eco-friendly and sustainable sustainable technology for airplanes an aviation. For the Paulistas it was a way to find a new use for an old technology - Air Hockey?
Yeah, air hockey, at least the cushion of air provided by the air hockey table. The Paulistas designed a way to use a system using a similar cushion of air that loads and unloads baggage from planes. It promises to be faster, easier and less energy demanding than the current system of moving belts.
Okay, that is so cool.
See the details at the Airbus Fly Your Ideas challenge website.
Yeah, air hockey, at least the cushion of air provided by the air hockey table. The Paulistas designed a way to use a system using a similar cushion of air that loads and unloads baggage from planes. It promises to be faster, easier and less energy demanding than the current system of moving belts.
Okay, that is so cool.
See the details at the Airbus Fly Your Ideas challenge website.
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
Review: Tocumen International Airport in Panama City
Both Lisa and I have traveled separately through Panama City the last couple of months. Price-wise, Copa Air is quickly becoming an important low cost airline between North and South America. That means their hub airport in Panama City, Tocumen International Airport, is seeing more of us Gringos heading down to Latin America and back. Here are our impressions, and a few tips, on getting around Tocumen.
Don't
expect a 5-star resort when you travel to Tocumen Airport, but you can expect a
clean airport that is easy to get around with decent services at hand. It
should make your trip through Panama a convenient one.
First of all. it is located in the north-east outskirts of Panama City about 15 miles (24 Km) out of town, and it is identified by the
international symbol PTY. Copa Airlines operates the most flights in
and out of Tocumen with connections throughout South America, but KLM, Iberia,
Delta, Air Panama, Avianca and American Airlines all have some service to
Tocumen Airport as well. Seasonal flights from Canada on Air Transat are also
now available.
The airport was last renovated in 2006/2007 with some
major expansions and modernizations, and it now has two runways and an updated
passenger terminal. All the standard services can be found: ATM machines,
several shopping outlets and places to buy a little food if you are waiting for
your flight. Prices are considered high by both every day Panamanian and Americans
standards, particularly the food, lthough less compared to many major US airports like LAX, O'Hara or others. Prices are mostly listed in the Balboa, but the shops do take US dollars.
High-end shops like La Riviera, Lascoste
and Tommy Hilfiger will give you interesting places to browse while you're
killing time on your layover. Some of the shops seem a little impractical for most Americans at an airport, such as one store selling large electronics. But a lot of South Americans pass through here, and they are going back home where electronics are harder to get and much more expensive. In any case, browsing does help
the time pass when you have a longer layover. There are also duty-free options if you prefer to shop for some
luxury items without the added taxes. 
The big tip I'll throw out is how to find the food. At Tocumen the food court areas are all on the 2nd
floor, which may not be that clear if you don't know to look. There are signs, but they are all a bit small. Many people
complain that there is no food, when in fact there is an entire floor of it
that they've missed.
Even with the expansions, the terminals are
a little small. During busy times, it can get pretty crowded and you'll find
long lines at food services and other shops. The waiting areas at the gates tend to the small side too and one big problem both Lisa and I noticed were flights from Panama City to the US require extra security screenings. The Panamanian security staff do these extra screenings at the gate waiting area. First they clear out the whole area, then set up a security checkpoint. Passengers can go back into the area after they and their baggage have gone through the extra screening. So if you are heading back to the States and have a few hours to wait, don't get too comfortable at the gate. Most likely you will have to move you and all of yours out for screening as the time for boarding approaches.
Another downside to the Tocumen
Airport is the lack of smoking areas. Those who have to have a smoke after being on a plane for 8 hours. You actually have to go through
immigration and customs to get off the premises to smoke. Then go through both
areas again to return. Not an ideal arrangement to put it mildly. 
Some of the staff speak a little English
but you would do better if you spoke enough Spanish to do some basic communication. Additional
perks like free wireless Internet are a nice touch as well. 
If you are going to be spending any time in
Panama, because of a longer layover or simply because that's your destination,
you will need either a taxi or a shuttle bus to get to the rest of the city.
There really aren't any public bus options. 
Will I Ever Get to Travel to Cuba?
Several months ago a Dutch friend of mine,
Wilha, traveled to Cuba on her vacation. She came back with a treasure trove of
stories and photos of sparkling beaches and eclectic towns. I have to wonder,
will I ever get to travel to Cuba?
I've looked into it a little further, and
I'm starting to get some confidence that the answer to my question is actually
"yes"! Have you ever dreamed of being able to visit Cuba someday?
A lot of Americans don't realize that its only
their country that has this old travel ban in place. People from around the
globe travel to Cuba all the time to enjoy their beaches, resorts and overall
hospitality. It's not hidden away behind some iron curtain where no one can
ever tread. Quite the contrary. Their tourist industry is just booming. So why
are Americans banned?
Well, the ban comes from the USA, not Cuba
and it's an old remnant of Cold War hostilities. I won't bore you with any more
political talk than that. It's a shame that the ban is still in place, but old
habits die hard particularly when it comes to international relations. 
More and more people are disregarding the
restriction and heading off to Cuba anyway. You have to take a longer route
through another country though because there are no routes or services that can
take you to Cuba from American soil. If you're an American already in another
country, you can just book a flight. Keep in mind that it's still illegal. The
ban is for all American citizens, no matter where you are living or where you
are traveling from. 
The way you get around this is that you
have to ask the customs officials not to stamp your passport going in and out of
Cuba. They're used to it and your request probably won't even raise an eyebrow.
BTW, this is not something I would do and I am advocating any illegal activity.
I'll wait until things become legal before I go. Still, a great number of
people do this but given the covert nature of traveling this way, there aren't
any official statistics to back up the stories. 
But perhaps this age of travel deceit is
finally coming to an end. Relations have been changing between Cuba and America
over the past few years, which may eventually lift this out-of-date travel ban.
In some sense, the ban is already coming down with a new policy in place that
allows Americans to go to Cuba as long as they are part of an officially
sanctioned informational tour group. The key points are "officially
sanctioned" and "informational". This is where Insight Cuba
comes in. 
This tour company is recognized by the
State Department , and they now offer several fully legal tours to Cuba for
Americans, as long as you abide by the rules of taking the trip as a
"people-to-people" approach to learning about the country. That means
you have to be going as a way to learn more about Cuba, by visiting historical
sites, taking in cultural events and other such activities. That doesn't sound
too bad at all, though it does mean you're not supposed to spend your time
lounging on the beach. Fair enough, at least it's a start. 
Their website offers tours ranging from 4-8 days, and starting a bit above $2000.
Monday, July 22, 2013
No Room at the Cuenca Monasterio for Me
No, there is no room at the Monasterio for me in Cuenca. In fact, there is no body at all at the monastery. This was one of those sad travel misadventures that fortunately I experienced entirely alone. I have come to Cuenca, Ecuador, one of my favorite places on Earth, to do some decompressing, some photography, do a little research for some travel articles and just have a nice break from the normal.
This time I took a bus from Guayaquil. It was late getting airline tickets so the short flight would have cost $140 round trip. I opted for the bus because it is only $8.25 each way for four hours travel time. Besides, I wanted to view the wonders of the Andes as we climbed from the sea level mangrove swamps of the Ecuadorian Pacific Coast up into the Sierras and past Ecuador's Cajas National Park.
You know, sweeping vistas.
Tumbling streams.
Llamas crossing the road.
Just stuff you don't get when soaring over head in a plane at 18,000 feet.
Anyway I am super excited because I have booked a room at the Hostal El Monasterio. This advertises itself as a higher end hostel located in an old monastery in Cuenca. History nut that I am that equals being way so cool.
I arrived at the monastery, which is in the old town district of Cuenca (El Centro). I find that the hostel is on the 6th floor.
By the way, for those unfamiliar, in Latin America the ground floor is Planta Baja. The next floor above the street is Piso Primero - 1st Floor. The Hostal El Monesterio is on the 7th floor by us Gringo's reckoning. There is an elevator, but it is not working.
Cuenca is at about 2500 meters above sea level, or more than 7500 feet. I am dragging my one pack with clothes, another with camera equipment and my laptop as well as a seperate tripod. By Piso Tercero (3rd Floor) I'm wheezing.
As I get past the 5th floor I begin to hear a TV. I come around the final set of stairs and see a security gate closed. On the other side I see:
Yep its the place. Several signs showing it is the Hostel de Monasterio. But no one here. I set down my bags and wait a minute for my lungs to stop wheezing. Then I call. I bang. I knock. I yell. There I am, one side of a security gate. On the other is nothing but a TV.
For 30 minutes I wait and make noise but no one is home at the Monasterio. Would a clerk be sleeping at 2:00 pm in the afternoon? Finally, defeated, I heft up my bags and clump down the seven flights of stairs.
To find the security gate to the building has been latched and locked. I am now trapped.
I call. I bang. I get out a plastic card from my wallet to try to jimmy the bolt latch but it is too heavy duty for that and I merely manage to shew up an otherwise worthless card. People on the street go buy, looking at me quizzically.
After another five minutes a man comes buy, a locksmith. He had closed the gate because he was working on the lock. As I stood there steaming, he calmly took a file to a large key he had with him and spent several minutes doctoring the key up. Finally he inserts the key and releases me from my prison.
And by the way, still no one at the hostel and no one can tell me if and when anyone will ever come by. The locksmith is working for the owner of the building and as far as he knows everything is closed on this Monday.
So with most of an hour now wasted and the afternoon getting on, I heft my load and stride out, Surely there is someplace in Cuenca today I can lay my head?
Because there is no room at the monastery for me.
This time I took a bus from Guayaquil. It was late getting airline tickets so the short flight would have cost $140 round trip. I opted for the bus because it is only $8.25 each way for four hours travel time. Besides, I wanted to view the wonders of the Andes as we climbed from the sea level mangrove swamps of the Ecuadorian Pacific Coast up into the Sierras and past Ecuador's Cajas National Park.
You know, sweeping vistas.
Tumbling streams.
Llamas crossing the road.
Just stuff you don't get when soaring over head in a plane at 18,000 feet.
Anyway I am super excited because I have booked a room at the Hostal El Monasterio. This advertises itself as a higher end hostel located in an old monastery in Cuenca. History nut that I am that equals being way so cool.
I arrived at the monastery, which is in the old town district of Cuenca (El Centro). I find that the hostel is on the 6th floor.
By the way, for those unfamiliar, in Latin America the ground floor is Planta Baja. The next floor above the street is Piso Primero - 1st Floor. The Hostal El Monesterio is on the 7th floor by us Gringo's reckoning. There is an elevator, but it is not working.
Cuenca is at about 2500 meters above sea level, or more than 7500 feet. I am dragging my one pack with clothes, another with camera equipment and my laptop as well as a seperate tripod. By Piso Tercero (3rd Floor) I'm wheezing.
As I get past the 5th floor I begin to hear a TV. I come around the final set of stairs and see a security gate closed. On the other side I see:
Yep its the place. Several signs showing it is the Hostel de Monasterio. But no one here. I set down my bags and wait a minute for my lungs to stop wheezing. Then I call. I bang. I knock. I yell. There I am, one side of a security gate. On the other is nothing but a TV.
For 30 minutes I wait and make noise but no one is home at the Monasterio. Would a clerk be sleeping at 2:00 pm in the afternoon? Finally, defeated, I heft up my bags and clump down the seven flights of stairs.
To find the security gate to the building has been latched and locked. I am now trapped.
I call. I bang. I get out a plastic card from my wallet to try to jimmy the bolt latch but it is too heavy duty for that and I merely manage to shew up an otherwise worthless card. People on the street go buy, looking at me quizzically.
After another five minutes a man comes buy, a locksmith. He had closed the gate because he was working on the lock. As I stood there steaming, he calmly took a file to a large key he had with him and spent several minutes doctoring the key up. Finally he inserts the key and releases me from my prison.
And by the way, still no one at the hostel and no one can tell me if and when anyone will ever come by. The locksmith is working for the owner of the building and as far as he knows everything is closed on this Monday.
So with most of an hour now wasted and the afternoon getting on, I heft my load and stride out, Surely there is someplace in Cuenca today I can lay my head?
Because there is no room at the monastery for me.
Monday, July 15, 2013
Travel Alert! Ecuador Volcano Tungurahua Erupts!
This has just been sent out by the US embassy in Quito:
Security Message for U.S. Citizens - U.S. Mission, Ecuador
Volcano Tungurahua Erupts, Caution Advised when Traveling in the Area
July 15, 2013
The U.S. Mission in Ecuador advises U.S. citizens living or traveling in Ecuador that the Tungurahua volcano, located near the tourist community of Banos in central Ecuador, reactivated on Sunday, July 14, 2013 with a period of high activity that included emissions of ash and pyroclastic flows (fast-moving currents of hot gas and rock).
Ecuador's National Secretary of Risk Management has imposed an Orange level of alert (the second highest level) for the provinces of Tungurahua and Chimborazo (including the town of Banos). In some communities immediately adjacent to the volcano, voluntary evacuations have been implemented. Ecuador's Geophysical Institute reports ash discharge has been registered in the provinces of Tungurahua, Chimborazo, Bolivar, Los Rios, Manabi and Guayas.
A thin layer of coarse black ash affected the city of Ambato in Tungurahua province. The most affected areas were the central and southern part of the city.
Past eruptions have affected air travel in Ecuador. U.S. citizens planning to fly to, from, or within Ecuador should monitor news outlets and have a plan in the event of flight cancellations. Some airlines have already canceled individual flights as a precautionary measure.
Because Ecuador is in a region of frequent volcano eruptions and earthquakes, U.S. citizens residing in Ecuador should keep extra food and water at home and consider purchasing dust masks and heavy gloves to protect hands during ash clean-up.
For more information on current activity, visit the website of the Ecuadorian Geophysical Institute, which monitors volcanoes and earthquakes.
Americans living or traveling in Ecuador are encouraged to enroll with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate in order to obtain updated information on travel and security within Ecuador through the Department of State's Smart Traveler Enrollment Program.
U.S. citizens should consult the Country Specific Information for Ecuador and the latest Travel Alerts and Warnings and Worldwide Caution at the Department's website. Updated information on travel and security in Ecuador may also be obtained from the Department of State by calling 1-888-407-4747 within the United States or by calling 1-202-501-4444 outside the United States.
The U.S. Embassy in Quito is located at Avigiras E12-170 y Eloy Alfaro. The telephone number for American Citizen Service (ACS) inquiries is (011 593-2) 398-5000. Within the same city use the last seven digits. Add the city code for intercity telephone calls.
Public call-in hours are Monday through Thursday 8:00 to 10:00 a.m. and Friday 10:00 to 11:00 a.m.
For after-hours emergencies, contact the Embassy at (011 593-2) 398-5200. Appointments for ACS are available through our website.
The U.S. Consulate General in Guayaquil is located at the corner of Avenida 9 de Octubre and Garcia Moreno (near the Hotel Oro Verde). The telephone number for ACS inquiries is (011-593-4) 232-3570 during business hours, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., or 232-1152 for after-hours emergencies.
Saturday, July 13, 2013
Globalization Goes Latino - Eat Local
I walked into the newest mall here in
Guayaquil to see just how far globalization has come. First the name – City
Mall! And then the food court, where I can eat such Latin American classics as:
Subway, KFC, Pizza Hut, Quiznos and McDonalds. By the way, I can go around the
corner for Burger King, Tony Roma’s, TGI Friday’s and Chili’s. Are there any
Ecuadorian restaurants left in Ecuador?
Of course, these are all mall food-court
staples but couldn't they find at least a few local fast-food places to join
the ranks of these international chains? 
I'll admit that there is a nice bit of
comfort knowing that in a strange country, you can stop in a familiar place and
have the exact same sandwich you get when 2 blocks from home. But as these
white-washed restaurants start to force out the smaller and more authentic
Ecuadorian places, it starts to drag down the appeal of any nation. Who wants
to travel somewhere only to be surrounded by the same things as home? It kind
of defeats the purpose, doesn't it?
To be fair, some of these franchises do
offer a little Latin American cuisine hidden away in their standard
menus. You can get a serving of rice and beans as a side at KFC. Other than a few added
extras, the menus are mostly all North American. Of course, by its very nature, fast food is
generally not supposed to be any sort of representation of quality cuisine. I
mean really, nobody goes to any fast food joint because they want traditional
or home-cooked meals. So if you are looking to find some good Ecuadorian food,
the mall isn't the place to find it.
To get real Latin American food in Ecuador,
find restaurants that serve up fresh bowls of tangy seafood ceviche, cheesy
crisp llapingachos, fried plantain slices, or rich goat stew (Seco de Chivo). The ultimate
culinary experience in Ecuador is to experience a whole roasted cuy (guinea pig) purchased
from a street vendor. That's a bit more interesting eating. But do they have to keep the teeth and claws on it when they roast and serve it?
Not only will you find that these dishes
are far more delightful than the typical mall-food fare, the prices are usually
quite a bit more reasonable. Don't feel that getting authentic food is going to
be too expensive. That's actually where the better deals are found. 
I'd love to be able to direct you to the
"best" restaurants to find some excellent Ecuador food, but there are
so many to choose from that I really can't list them all. Since I started off
mentioning Guayaquil, I have a few suggestions for visitors. Embarcadero 41, El
Cafe de Tere and La Canoa all have amazing local dishes. 
So next time you are in Guayaquil (or any
other city in Ecuador), try to find someplace unique to eat rather than settle
for the closest outlet of Carl's Jr or Domino Pizza. Your stomach will thank
you.
Tuesday, July 9, 2013
Isla de la Plata – The Poor Man’s Galapagos
Yes, the Galapagos Islands are on almost
everybody’s bucket list. They should be, even if Darwin didn’t make the islands
famous. Their unique mix of breathtaking island views and fascinating plants
and animals are a lifetime experience. But it also costs, a lot, with triple
digit park fees alongside high costs for air travel and jaw dropping hotel
charges. But Ecuadorians know that Isla de la Plata is much more accessible and
much cheaper. You can even see boobies.
It's off Ecuador's Pacific coast near the Machalilla
National Park, and the tiny village of Puerto Lopez is the place to get a boat.
If you're seeing the park, you really must take the extra time to head out to
Isla de la Plata as well. It's is nowhere near as busy as the Galapagos and
you'll see just as much (possibly even more). You can get admission tickets
that include the island along with your entry to the park, and there are nearly
a dozen different boat operators that run out there. 
It may be small but this island is a true
gem, surrounded by rocky coastlines and the deep blue ocean. There are
footpaths circling the island so you can see all the landscapes without having
to blaze your own trails. Guided tours are an option too if you want to hear a
professional naturalist tell the island's tales. 
The main attraction here are the boobies.
More boobies than you could possibly count. The feathered kind, of course. The
blue-footed and red-footed boobies are the most numerous and you won't see both
species together even if you did visit the famous Galapagos instead. That's
unique to Isla de la Plata. There are also masked boobies, pelicans,
albatrosses, and the brilliantly red-chested frigatebirds. The birds are pretty
tame after so many years of watching all the human visitors, so you can expect
to get close to them while you walk the trails. 
Though Isla de la Plata is a bird-watchers
paradise, there are other animals to be found. Most notable are the
groups of sea lions you can find lounging around the shores. It's the birds
that make up most of the island wildlife though. This is also a prime whale watching destination.
And there is more to see off the island
itself if you don't mind getting wet. There are several great snorkeling
locations where you can watch shoals of ocean fish and maybe see a giant sea
turtle. Manta rays are also populous around the island, and they are a
thrilling sight to see from underwater. Most tour groups will offer the option
to snorkel so don't worry about arranging your own gear or anything. And even a
complete novice can try it out at least once. 
When you're on the boat coming or going to
the island, watch the water for a cresting humpback whale or even a pod of
dolphins or Orca whales. The boat ride is about an hour long, so you'll have
plenty of time to watch the waves. Whale sightings are a bit seasonal, with the
best viewing between June and September. 
Thursday, July 4, 2013
My Favorite Churches in Ecuador
I am a history geek and the Spanish
Colonial churches in Ecuador are honey to the fly drawing me in. I am happy to take a weekend to just go to Quito or Cuenca and just admire the towering architecture and snap my photos of the buildings and the plazas around them After all,
what isn’t fascinating about a church that was built in the 1500s by Inca
slaves of the Spanish Conquistadores, reusing the stones that once had come
from their temple to the Sun God? Here is my list to the top ten churches to
see in Ecuador.
Since I'm all about history, these are the
best churches not only for their amazing architecture but also because of their
age and timeless stories. 
La Basilica
del Voto Nacional (Quito)
This huge beautiful church has 24 separate
chapels inside, with an impressive Neo-Gothic exterior that is quite a sight to
behold. It's certainly not the oldest church in Quito, having been originally
built in the late 1800s. Besides the simple majesty of the building, the
animal-themed "gargoyles" all around the exterior make it quite
unique. You can find la Basilica near the old city quarter, though you'll be
able to see it from just about anywhere in Quito. 
Santo Domingo (Guayaquil)
Here is where you can take in some real
history. This church is the oldest in Guayaquil, as it dates back to 1548
though there has been a number of reconstructions over the centuries due to
fire damage. Even so, I don't think that detracts too much from the deep
history of the place. It's a gorgeous little church too, with a pale yellow
exterior and twin green domes on the spires. 
It can be a little hard to find, snuggled up under the Cerro Santa Ana (Saint Ann Hill) and a few blocks off the Malecon 2000 (the main riverwalk). Easter is magnificent, with massive processionals weaving through the city and ending here.
Church of St. Francis (Quito)
I love this church in Quito because it is
so much more than just a church. Built in 1536, this place was once a
collection of chapels as well as a convent and monastery. Overall, the building
is 2 blocks in size which sets it apart from most other "churches"
right there. The style is Renaissance and Baroque, and it took more than 70
years to complete all the construction. Impressive. The crowd here is also a little poorer than those that come to some of the other great churches of Quito, so you get a whole different vibe here. The street vendors outside are less commercial for one thing.
Church of Saint Augustine (Quito)
Like many old churches, this one has had
some reconstruction done since its founding in the 16th century. Still, it has
great Spanish style with an unusual dark portico that stands out against the
stark white facade of the rest of the church. 
El Sagrario (Cuenca)
This is the ancient church I mentioned
earlier, built in 1557 using stones from the Incan ruins of Tumbebamba. There are a lot of stories that the old Tumbebamba, a regional capital of the ancient Inca Empire, was the source of the legends of the City of Gold. If that
is not an incredible historic heritage, I don't know what is. 
Unlike the other churches on my list, this one isn't still currently used for worship. It's a religious art museum today. I think this makes a lovely transition so typical of Cuenca. This Andean town has the massive Spanish Colonial buildings, and has a number of old Incan ruins within a day trip, but it is also a university town with a large, English speaking expat community.
Unlike the other churches on my list, this one isn't still currently used for worship. It's a religious art museum today. I think this makes a lovely transition so typical of Cuenca. This Andean town has the massive Spanish Colonial buildings, and has a number of old Incan ruins within a day trip, but it is also a university town with a large, English speaking expat community.
La Compania (Quito)
Also called the Church of the Society of
Jesus, this Jesuit church just demands that the treasure hunter inside of you has to come and see this. It is known for it's spectacular interior design rather
than it's outside architecture. Yeah, the design is great, but the jaw-dropping part here is that the nave inside is completely gilded in gold
leaf, and is flat out, undeniable, heart thumping stunning. And it satisfies my need for history, having been built
in the early 1600s. 
Cathedral Nueva (Cuenca)
Known in English as the New Cathedral, this
church is a more modern replacement for El Sagrario that I just mentioned. It
has a different style than most, using red bricks instead of the massive stone work of other Ecuadorian churches. It has a much less ornate exterior. However the Cuenca downtown area is dominated by the brilliant blue domes. It sits near El Sagrario so it is a great and easy idea to check out both churches. 
Church of San Francisco (Guayaquil)
This is a newer church in Guayaquil, by newer meaning it was built in the 1700s and 1800s. It's a pretty contemporary church compared to the rest
of this list, but it's too lovely to pass by. My favorite part isn't so much the inside as the outside plaza. San Francisco is in the middle of the main business district of El Centro, not far from the US Consulate and a few blocks from the main Malecon 2000 touristy boardwalk. It is also surrounded by many markets of all shapes and sizes. A visit here can quickly turn into an all-day session.
Balbanera Church (Riobamba)
This is no where near the magnificence and iconic splendor of most of the other churches on my list, but if you are going through Riobamba this just tugs at the historian in me. I added this one because it has the
notoriety of being the first Catholic church in all of Ecuador. I'll admit it's
a very simple and understated building so don't expect a towering Gothic
masterpiece. You go because you want to to see what most churches looked like in the 1500s and 1600s, not the masterpieces from the great cities. You go to Balbanera to commune with the ghosts of its nearly 500 year history. 
Church of El Carmen of Asuncion (Cuenca)
This
smooth stuccoed church has a much different look than the others, which is why I add it in as my final offering. This is more typical of a town church you would see outside of the great cities during the 1800s. Outside it is relatively plain, but inside it is an illogical puzzle of coves and
nooks filled with statuary and sculpture. I love the clean lines and calm
feeling of it. It is also conveniently in the old town area of Cuenca, a few blocks from La Catedral Nueva and is right on the edge of a large market.
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Taxis – How to Be Safe
Taxis are great for travelers in South
America. In most places they are numerous and cheap. In my city of Guayaquil
which is over two million people you can go almost anywhere from between $2-$7.
However you can be cheated, and even robbed or kidnapped if you get yourself in
the wrong situation. A couple of weeks ago a co-worker and his girl friend were the victims of a "sequestro expreso" (quick kidnapping). The got into a cab and almost immediately the cab filled up with armed men. They were forced to go around to different ATMs to drain their credit cards. Of course they lost their wallets and all other money and valuables. 
Several hours later they were released physically unharmed. They were smart, they did not resist. Others have been beaten, raped and even killed when they resisted. I've known several who have been kidnapped this way over the years. I have not, which I out down to a combination of always practicing good awareness and personal security practices, but also some good luck.
Here are some smart guidelines on how to use taxis
confidently and safely in South America.
Ask the Hotel
The staff at the front desk of your hotel
should be able to help you find some reputable taxi service, so talk to them
first. In fact, you should probably ask them to call a taxi for you rather than
try to hail one out on the street. That way, you know that you're getting car
from an actual taxi company. This is also a tip that you should follow when
you're away from the hotel. Know the number of a good cab company and call for
one when you need to go anywhere. It may take a little longer than grabbing the
first car that drives by, but you never know who you're getting in a car with
that way. 
You can also ask at the desk about which
areas of the city aren't very safe for tourists, and where you should avoid.
Now, you probably won't have any particular reason to be heading to the
"bad side of town" but it doesn't hurt to know where you should steer
clear of. 
If you are in a city with a consulate, like Guayaquil where I live, you can also inquire at the consulate if they have any vetted or approved taxi services. They often have 1-2 services they use for their personnel and activities. However the downside is these companies often are very busy and not always available just for people who call up.
Most airports, shopping malls and other important businesses have approved taxi services they work with and these are almost certainly safe. However on the fringes of the properties are often other taxis, some are good but this is also where the dangerous taxis lie.
Know the Rates
This can be a bit trickier, but with a
little research, you should get to know what a typical taxi rate should be
around the city. That way you can tell when your driver is trying to rip you
off. Another side of doing some research beforehand is that you should have a
rough idea where you're going, and watch as you travel. If your driver starts
heading in the wrong direction, you'll want to notice as soon as possible.
Keep Your Stuff to Yourself
You'll most certainly be carrying something
with you when you're sight-seeing from a small backpack to a purse. That's
fine, but don't sit rifling through it or leafing through your wallet while
sitting in the cab. Don't pull out your laptop computer while en route.
Flaunting your wealth is never a safe idea. 
Recognize the Share Taxis
These type of taxis aren't common in North
America, so people are sometimes a little confused if they get into one.
Depending on the region, they are called taxi colectivos or just colectivos,
and they run more like a shuttlebus than a typical taxi. They follow a set
route and you share the it with whoever else is going that way. They are much
smaller than a public bus, sometimes just a little pickup truck, and don't usually run on a set schedule. The driver
prefers to go once the car or van is full, so you can expect a bit of waiting
if nobody else is traveling at that moment. 
I love using share taxis and buses when I travel within the country. You see much more, meet more people, and learn a lot about real life and culture than otherwise. They
are a great way to travel but you need to be aware that you'll be
sharing close quarters with several other people during your trip. My wife was robbed on one. She was traveling and dozed off. When she woke up all of her back pack zippers were opened and her wallet was missing. No one saw anything, of course. If that
doesn't appeal to you, stick to the traditional exclusive taxis. 
Monday, July 1, 2013
Steaming on Snowden
So here I am in Ecuador, an American Expat, and now I find myself as an object of intense debate and curiosity. The Expat chat rooms are crackling with opinions on Edward Snowden and what it all means to us Americans living here in Ecuador. Meanwhile almost everyday an Ecuadorian asks me what I think. I've stayed out of it. But today I read a statement that simply makes me want to scream. So here it is. I am Steaming on Snowden.
For those for you who just returned from your three month vacation on Mars, Edward Snowden is the ex-CIA worker cum NSA contractor who filched several laptops worth of classified documents. Since then we have had a wild party of embarrassing newspaper leaks, Snowden on the run, being helped by WikiLeaks and their cornered head Jullian Assange, and the young man ending up in a no man's land at an airport in Moscow. Originally a whole raft of countries, headed by Russia and Ecuador, trumpeted Snowden and the embarrassment he has caused the US government, but as the initial ha ha has given way Snowden found himself with no visa, and no country seems to want him, except of course the United States which is waiting with a pair of handcuffs.
And I have been, well not ambivalent, but torn on the issue. On the one hand I am an ex-military guy. I take things like being sworn to secrets seriously. Especially since there are news reports from Hong Kong that quoted young Snowden as having applied to his secret job with the express purpose of stealing secrets. That makes my blood burn. On the other hand, I am also not at all happy with the recent policies of the Bush and Obama administrations. Their records on civil rights and privacy have also made my blood to boil.
So with my blood boiling and burning I kept my mouth shut, because to condemn one might seem like condoning the other. I was in no mood to condone anything. Until now. I still do not really condone, but I have some heartfelt condemnation to ladle out.
This afternoon I ran across a news item on CNBC.com. You can see the entire news report HERE.
The key items were two quotes. These are reportedly made by Snowden and presented by representatives of WikiLeaks:
First of all, the report says that Snowden criticises the US Government for pressuring other governments to deny his asylum petitions.
Quote #1
Deception from a world leader??? Really? It looks to be pretty plain here. The US is angry and wants Snowden back. Can anyone anywhere in the world think that the US is deceiving people and really does not want Snowden back???
The extralegal penalty of exile - Eh - you went into exile, dear Edward. If I went merely by your actions I would have had to say you were wanted for raping and killing a girl or you stole state secrets. Oh! It was state secrets. Well, either way it was your choice to go. You cannot in any way blame the US Government for your own ineptitude. They do enough stupid things without you blaming them for what you did.
These are the old, bad tools of political aggression. Their purpose is to frighten, not me, but those who would come after me, Well, duh.
Let me tell you who my heroes are: George Washington, John Adams, Martin Luther King Jr, Nelson Mandela, Mahatma Gandhi. What did they have in common? They were willing to sacrifice themselves for a cause they believed in.
George Washington and John Adams joined the Colonials in their war against Britain knowing full well that if they were caught or unsuccessful that they would be shot, maybe hanged and if King Geaorge was really feeling put upon they might have been drawn and quartered. They did it anyway, believing it was the right thing to do.
Martin Luther King Jr was thrown in jail several times for his activities in fighting against segregation and discrimination. By the way I think everybody in this wretched fiasco should be required to sit in a corner and be required to read twice over King's Letter from Birmingham Jail.
Mandela and Gandhi were both thrown in jail and repeatedly beaten for their fight for justice. They did it anyway, accepting their punishment as a cost of change.
Why do I have a slow burn against Assange and Snowden? Because they have a hypocritical, bankrupt view of struggle for freedom. They think the only thing that should be required.is that they unilaterally decide they are innocent of all crimes. It was a policy that first came from a guy by the name of Lenin: "The ends justify the means." It is the same crime they charge against Obama and the US government. It is a bankrupt idea, morally empty. The end can never the the justification of the means.That way leads to the harsh mockery of the Iranian courts. I wonder what Snowden would think his fate would be if he had done this as an Iranian citizen against the Iranian govenrment? The end truly justifies the means there. Is that the society Snowden wants?
Washington, Adams, King, Mandela and Gandhi broke the unjust laws, true, but then they stood and were willing to take the punishment. They showed their moral courage, sure in their expectations that history would prove them right.What do you have if there is no punishment for committing crimes? What if the person who commits the crime simply needs to say they committed their crime for freedom or liberty and so all of society must stop and not give them any punishment? If that is all a person needs to do then freedom and liberty and laws and justice are nothing but a farce.
Yes the laws are there. Yes the US government is trying to capture Snowden. To tell you the truth they should. Laws should be followed, unless they are unrighteous then they should be changed. They must not become a mockery if anyone can ignore the law simply on a whim. There are lots of societies in this world where there are people who do not have to follow the laws of their own country. Of course, these countries are blindingly corrupt and shot through with inequalities and economic, political and social discrimination. Why should Snowden be allowed to break the law, simply because he assures us that he is doing it merely as a patriotic action? That we should take his word that all the scheming and lying he did to get into that classified position was for freedom?
If Snowden and Assange really are patriots and heroes then things will change and history will show them to be heroes. But not everybody can be a hero. You have to sacrifice to be a hero. Snowden and Assange want to be heroes without sacrifice. And that is why the two of them are laughable, pale caricatures of heroes like Mandela, King, Gandhi, Washington and Adams.
.
Unilaterally revoked my passport, leaving me a stateless person - Duh. The passport is not a right, it is something that is granted by a government. In fact, a passport is not owned by the individual. By international law and treaty a passport is owned and controlled by the government who issued it. In my passport, the one I have open in front of me, IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR PASSPORT. it reads the following
GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL : Sorry, we cannot let you travel, so can we have our passport back?
SNOWDEN : No. I am going to leave and find a nice warm beach somewhere..
GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL : Oh, come on! Be a nice guy. Please let me have your passport puhlease?
Sorry, I can't see that happening.And this is such an empty, whining, clueless little fart. It's as bad as some of the worst ridiculousness that North Korea was blathering a few months ago. Please, just shut up.
And finally:
Without any judicial order, the administration now seeks to stop me exercising a basic right. A right that belongs to everybody, a right to asylum. Sorry, you just failed your social studies exam. There is no right to asylum. Asylum is a status GRANTED by a government. Every year thousands of people apply to the United States apply for asylum. Some receive it, most do not. It is the same way all over this world and always has been.
And frankly it is this last part which just turned my stomach and left me disgusted with the Snowden/Assange/WikiLeaks side. Theirs is a morally empty, juvenile arrogance in which they are hoping that by doing the most screaming and pointing of fingers people will be blind to the unwholesome ridiculousness of their empty arguments. They seek to be heroes without sacrifice. They seek the anarchy of destruction without a vision of a better world. They know they are smarter than everybody else and as long as they keep talking then no one will see that they have done nothing admirable.Shut up, shut up, please, just shut up.
The Bush and Obama governments still make my blood boil.
But Snowden has me steaming.
For those for you who just returned from your three month vacation on Mars, Edward Snowden is the ex-CIA worker cum NSA contractor who filched several laptops worth of classified documents. Since then we have had a wild party of embarrassing newspaper leaks, Snowden on the run, being helped by WikiLeaks and their cornered head Jullian Assange, and the young man ending up in a no man's land at an airport in Moscow. Originally a whole raft of countries, headed by Russia and Ecuador, trumpeted Snowden and the embarrassment he has caused the US government, but as the initial ha ha has given way Snowden found himself with no visa, and no country seems to want him, except of course the United States which is waiting with a pair of handcuffs.
And I have been, well not ambivalent, but torn on the issue. On the one hand I am an ex-military guy. I take things like being sworn to secrets seriously. Especially since there are news reports from Hong Kong that quoted young Snowden as having applied to his secret job with the express purpose of stealing secrets. That makes my blood burn. On the other hand, I am also not at all happy with the recent policies of the Bush and Obama administrations. Their records on civil rights and privacy have also made my blood to boil.
So with my blood boiling and burning I kept my mouth shut, because to condemn one might seem like condoning the other. I was in no mood to condone anything. Until now. I still do not really condone, but I have some heartfelt condemnation to ladle out.
This afternoon I ran across a news item on CNBC.com. You can see the entire news report HERE.
The key items were two quotes. These are reportedly made by Snowden and presented by representatives of WikiLeaks:
First of all, the report says that Snowden criticises the US Government for pressuring other governments to deny his asylum petitions.
Quote #1
"This kind of deception from a world leader is not justice, and neither is the extralegal penalty of exile. These are the old, bad tools of political aggression. Their purpose is to frighten, not me, but those who would come after me,"Quote #2
"Although I am convicted of nothing, it [U.S. government] has unilaterally revoked my passport, leaving me a stateless person. Without any judicial order, the administration now seeks to stop me exercising a basic right. A right that belongs to everybody, a right to asylum."My first thought is this kid needs to go back to high school.
Deception from a world leader??? Really? It looks to be pretty plain here. The US is angry and wants Snowden back. Can anyone anywhere in the world think that the US is deceiving people and really does not want Snowden back???
The extralegal penalty of exile - Eh - you went into exile, dear Edward. If I went merely by your actions I would have had to say you were wanted for raping and killing a girl or you stole state secrets. Oh! It was state secrets. Well, either way it was your choice to go. You cannot in any way blame the US Government for your own ineptitude. They do enough stupid things without you blaming them for what you did.
These are the old, bad tools of political aggression. Their purpose is to frighten, not me, but those who would come after me, Well, duh.
Let me tell you who my heroes are: George Washington, John Adams, Martin Luther King Jr, Nelson Mandela, Mahatma Gandhi. What did they have in common? They were willing to sacrifice themselves for a cause they believed in.
George Washington and John Adams joined the Colonials in their war against Britain knowing full well that if they were caught or unsuccessful that they would be shot, maybe hanged and if King Geaorge was really feeling put upon they might have been drawn and quartered. They did it anyway, believing it was the right thing to do.
Martin Luther King Jr was thrown in jail several times for his activities in fighting against segregation and discrimination. By the way I think everybody in this wretched fiasco should be required to sit in a corner and be required to read twice over King's Letter from Birmingham Jail.
Mandela and Gandhi were both thrown in jail and repeatedly beaten for their fight for justice. They did it anyway, accepting their punishment as a cost of change.
Why do I have a slow burn against Assange and Snowden? Because they have a hypocritical, bankrupt view of struggle for freedom. They think the only thing that should be required.is that they unilaterally decide they are innocent of all crimes. It was a policy that first came from a guy by the name of Lenin: "The ends justify the means." It is the same crime they charge against Obama and the US government. It is a bankrupt idea, morally empty. The end can never the the justification of the means.That way leads to the harsh mockery of the Iranian courts. I wonder what Snowden would think his fate would be if he had done this as an Iranian citizen against the Iranian govenrment? The end truly justifies the means there. Is that the society Snowden wants?
Washington, Adams, King, Mandela and Gandhi broke the unjust laws, true, but then they stood and were willing to take the punishment. They showed their moral courage, sure in their expectations that history would prove them right.What do you have if there is no punishment for committing crimes? What if the person who commits the crime simply needs to say they committed their crime for freedom or liberty and so all of society must stop and not give them any punishment? If that is all a person needs to do then freedom and liberty and laws and justice are nothing but a farce.
Yes the laws are there. Yes the US government is trying to capture Snowden. To tell you the truth they should. Laws should be followed, unless they are unrighteous then they should be changed. They must not become a mockery if anyone can ignore the law simply on a whim. There are lots of societies in this world where there are people who do not have to follow the laws of their own country. Of course, these countries are blindingly corrupt and shot through with inequalities and economic, political and social discrimination. Why should Snowden be allowed to break the law, simply because he assures us that he is doing it merely as a patriotic action? That we should take his word that all the scheming and lying he did to get into that classified position was for freedom?
If Snowden and Assange really are patriots and heroes then things will change and history will show them to be heroes. But not everybody can be a hero. You have to sacrifice to be a hero. Snowden and Assange want to be heroes without sacrifice. And that is why the two of them are laughable, pale caricatures of heroes like Mandela, King, Gandhi, Washington and Adams.
.
Unilaterally revoked my passport, leaving me a stateless person - Duh. The passport is not a right, it is something that is granted by a government. In fact, a passport is not owned by the individual. By international law and treaty a passport is owned and controlled by the government who issued it. In my passport, the one I have open in front of me, IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR PASSPORT. it reads the following
US GOVERNMENT PROPERTY this passport is the property of the United States (Title 22, Code of Federal Regulations, Section 51.9). It must be surrendered upon demand made by an authorized individual of the United States Government.Of course it was unilaterally taken. Snowden violated an oath, stole documents and property, committed multiple felonies, knew he was committing multiple felonies ( the briefings you get about it when you get such a clearance are extremely detailed). Of course the United States government unilaterally revoked the passport and his security clearance too. It is not something the government would simply say:
GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL : Sorry, we cannot let you travel, so can we have our passport back?
SNOWDEN : No. I am going to leave and find a nice warm beach somewhere..
GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL : Oh, come on! Be a nice guy. Please let me have your passport puhlease?
Sorry, I can't see that happening.And this is such an empty, whining, clueless little fart. It's as bad as some of the worst ridiculousness that North Korea was blathering a few months ago. Please, just shut up.
And finally:
Without any judicial order, the administration now seeks to stop me exercising a basic right. A right that belongs to everybody, a right to asylum. Sorry, you just failed your social studies exam. There is no right to asylum. Asylum is a status GRANTED by a government. Every year thousands of people apply to the United States apply for asylum. Some receive it, most do not. It is the same way all over this world and always has been.
And frankly it is this last part which just turned my stomach and left me disgusted with the Snowden/Assange/WikiLeaks side. Theirs is a morally empty, juvenile arrogance in which they are hoping that by doing the most screaming and pointing of fingers people will be blind to the unwholesome ridiculousness of their empty arguments. They seek to be heroes without sacrifice. They seek the anarchy of destruction without a vision of a better world. They know they are smarter than everybody else and as long as they keep talking then no one will see that they have done nothing admirable.Shut up, shut up, please, just shut up.
The Bush and Obama governments still make my blood boil.
But Snowden has me steaming.
Ticket Change Fees Driving Airline Profits
Airlines are getting more income from ticket change fees and it is going straight to profits. At least, that is what some new information from the US Department of Transportation shows in reporting Change Reservation Revenue for the first quarter of 2013. Make a reservation and then need to change your flight? It  is costing more:
Charges are becoming more common because domestic airlines have been reducing flights so that planes are fuller. This is a good thing for airlines since they are getting more revenue from their seats. However fewer seats in the air means it is tougher for passengers to find a seat, tickets for those seats are getting pricier. But now it is also getting pricier and more common for travelers to pay fees when they have to change their tickets.
Of course, the big money maker for airlines still are those horrible bag fees. The same report stated airlines captured $2 billion off those fees.
Anyway, the lesson here: when you travel, make sure you are getting the right ticket. Changing circumstances or just changing your mind will cost you in more airline fees.
Change Reservation Revenue in 1 Q
| Rank | Airline | 1Q (in millions) | 
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Delta | $198.5 | 
| 2 | United | $176.9 | 
| 3 | American | $132.0 | 
| 4 | US Airways | $83.5 | 
| 5 | JetBlue | $36.7 | 
| 6 | Alaska | $21.8 | 
| 7 | Southwest | $9.2 | 
| 8 | Spirit | $7.9 | 
| 9 | Virgin America | $7.7 | 
| 10 | Hawaiian | $4.6 | 
| 11 | Frontier | $3.0 | 
| 12 | Allegiant | $2.2 | 
| 13 | Sun Country | $.46 | 
| All | $685.176 | 
Source: U.S. Department Of Transportation
Charges are becoming more common because domestic airlines have been reducing flights so that planes are fuller. This is a good thing for airlines since they are getting more revenue from their seats. However fewer seats in the air means it is tougher for passengers to find a seat, tickets for those seats are getting pricier. But now it is also getting pricier and more common for travelers to pay fees when they have to change their tickets.
Of course, the big money maker for airlines still are those horrible bag fees. The same report stated airlines captured $2 billion off those fees.
Anyway, the lesson here: when you travel, make sure you are getting the right ticket. Changing circumstances or just changing your mind will cost you in more airline fees.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
