Climbing Cerro Santa Ana

Sweat is dripping from my nose and I look down. The marker on the step ahead of me reads 289. There are 444 steps to reach the top of Cerro Santa Ana and its penultimate lighthouse. That’s, err, 155 more to go. It’s time for another break so I step into another door, another funky bar with cane chairs, order a cervesa (beer), my third so far this Saturday afternoon. I sit and watch the scores of people going up and down the steps. I have all day.

Most visitors to Guayaquil's highest tourist destination see this as a somewhat painful chore, and inevitably try to march up all 444 steps like they're trying to win some kind of marathon. They fail to see that the point of Cerro Santa Ana is the journey, not the destination. I like to come here every 3-4 weeks, especially on a Saturday. It is great exercise, I can take some photos, and just enjoying life and reveling in the moment is refreshing all by itself.

The entire route up to the peak is lined with brightly colored shops, boutiques, art galleries and restaurants, so there is no reason why you shouldn't stop and browse every few steps. It so much of the Latino culture in general, and the coastal Ecuadorian culture in particular, where taking your time, stopping and browsing and drinking in the location to its deepest, richest level is really the whole point.

When you only climb up 15 or 20 steps at a time, you won't feel like you're climbing at all. Just make sure to allow yourself lots of time and don't worry about how long it is taking you. Even if you are just sitting on a bench, you could always strike up a conversation with someone next to you and get to know another traveler or a local who might have some great Guayaquil stories to share.

Even at such a relaxed pace, you will eventually reach the top of Cerro Santa Ana, to find some of the most amazing views in Guayaquil. The hill is covered in a cluttered and colorful mix of homes and shops, making the sight a little unexpected. The sides of the hill always remind me of some architectural Easter Egg decoration. It's beautiful.

The old Fortin del Cerro (the Fort of the Hill, in English) still stands to remind us of the times of battles and pirates. You can see the old fort, and there is a bit of a museum in there now where you can learn a bit more about Guayaquil's past. Nothing wrong with a little learning during your sight-seeing.

There is also a lighthouse where you can climb just a few more steps for the ultimate panoramic view of the city as well as the river. A small Spanish-style church is also at the top, so you'll find several historical parts of Guayaquil to explore once you're at the summit.

Once you're back at the base of the hill, you can see some other Guayaquil sights like the old Church of Santo Domingo or the Teatro Bogota theatre.

So if you're up for the challenge of Cerro Santa Ana, you'll have no trouble finding it. It's visible from anywhere in the city and you can get started on the steps right in the heart of the city. You really have no excuse. Get climbing.