Climbing Cerro Santa Ana

Sweat is dripping from my nose and I look down. The marker on the step ahead of me reads 289. There are 444 steps to reach the top of Cerro Santa Ana and its penultimate lighthouse. That’s, err, 155 more to go. It’s time for another break so I step into another door, another funky bar with cane chairs, order a cervesa (beer), my third so far this Saturday afternoon. I sit and watch the scores of people going up and down the steps. I have all day.

Most visitors to Guayaquil's highest tourist destination see this as a somewhat painful chore, and inevitably try to march up all 444 steps like they're trying to win some kind of marathon. They fail to see that the point of Cerro Santa Ana is the journey, not the destination. I like to come here every 3-4 weeks, especially on a Saturday. It is great exercise, I can take some photos, and just enjoying life and reveling in the moment is refreshing all by itself.

The entire route up to the peak is lined with brightly colored shops, boutiques, art galleries and restaurants, so there is no reason why you shouldn't stop and browse every few steps. It so much of the Latino culture in general, and the coastal Ecuadorian culture in particular, where taking your time, stopping and browsing and drinking in the location to its deepest, richest level is really the whole point.

When you only climb up 15 or 20 steps at a time, you won't feel like you're climbing at all. Just make sure to allow yourself lots of time and don't worry about how long it is taking you. Even if you are just sitting on a bench, you could always strike up a conversation with someone next to you and get to know another traveler or a local who might have some great Guayaquil stories to share.

Even at such a relaxed pace, you will eventually reach the top of Cerro Santa Ana, to find some of the most amazing views in Guayaquil. The hill is covered in a cluttered and colorful mix of homes and shops, making the sight a little unexpected. The sides of the hill always remind me of some architectural Easter Egg decoration. It's beautiful.

The old Fortin del Cerro (the Fort of the Hill, in English) still stands to remind us of the times of battles and pirates. You can see the old fort, and there is a bit of a museum in there now where you can learn a bit more about Guayaquil's past. Nothing wrong with a little learning during your sight-seeing.

There is also a lighthouse where you can climb just a few more steps for the ultimate panoramic view of the city as well as the river. A small Spanish-style church is also at the top, so you'll find several historical parts of Guayaquil to explore once you're at the summit.

Once you're back at the base of the hill, you can see some other Guayaquil sights like the old Church of Santo Domingo or the Teatro Bogota theatre.

So if you're up for the challenge of Cerro Santa Ana, you'll have no trouble finding it. It's visible from anywhere in the city and you can get started on the steps right in the heart of the city. You really have no excuse. Get climbing.

They Do Parks Right in Guayaquil

I think Guayaquil has some of the best parks in the world. Of course, I have lived here for seven years so I might be a bit biased. Guayaquil is also one of those cities that never seems to get any respect. It is the largest city in Ecuador and the commercial center and a major port. I hear a lot of people who say there is nothing to do here. In Guayaquil? 

En serio? 

(really?)??????

Most people only know it as a stop along their trip to the Galapagos Islands. Step out of the hotel, though and you find a wonderfully green world out there.

Let's start by exploring Iguana Park first. It's just a few blocks from the riverside boardwalks of Malecon Simon Bolivar, so a quick detour from your shopping will bring you to this little green city gem. What makes Iguana Park so special is that the name is so wonderfully accurate. This little city park is filled with huge docile iguanas, that laze around all day regardless of their human audiences. Iguanas are harmless and are fun to watch after seeing all the nearby city attractions. There are also snapping turtles in a pool. By the way, one thing you’ll find is about every park has some massive statue to some hero or local legend. At Iguana Park it is Simon Bolivar.

Though most people call it Iguana Park, it sometimes goes by the name Parque Seminario.

And if you are walking along the Malecon 2000, there is another great park at the northern end of it. Just make sure you're ready for the 444 steps it takes to get up to the Cerro Santa Ana. The view over the city makes the extra effort worth it though. You can see everything from up there, and its more than just a simple park. There is a lot of history at Cerra Santa Ana, including an old lighthouse, church, museum and high watch battlements. But to me the best part are the scores of little restaurants, bars and stores along the winding steps.

If that's not enough history to suit you, you should spend some time at the Parque Historico, across the river from the downtown core of Guayaquil. It's a real authentic step back in time, where you can walk around restored buildings from Ecuador's past. The little zoo boasts a collection of brightly-colored parrots, more iguanas and other local wildlife. It's a great park to visit if you are travelling with children because there is so much to see.

Personally I love the Malecon 2000. Besides being a fabulous place to see the river, there are loads of little vendors and shops to explore as well. Museums and restaurants are also found along the boardwalk, but if you are looking for parks then its the Malecon Gardens you're after. The gardens are a huge botanical park filled with Ecuadorian landscapes. Large groomed beds of flowers line the pedestrian pathways, and you can stroll through the area under a green canopy of trees. Streams, fountains and gazebos dot the area to add a little extra interest. It's just a beautiful place for a relaxing afternoon walk.

This is just the tip of the iceberg. There are many other parks in Guayaquil so that you could easily find a new patch of green space every day you are there, and never see the same sights twice. 

I Hate Baggage Fees

Coming back home from a short holiday back in the United States I boarded a plane to take me from Las Vegas to Panama City. Copa Airlines weighed all of the passenger carry-on baggage to make sure they were within baggage restrictions. Yes, it is true, the insane baggage fees and regulations are stretching their ridiculous tendrils into Latin American travel.

It's getting to the point where isn't almost tempting to travel empty handed and just buy new clothes at your destination. Well, it's not quite that bad yet, but it's getting there. If you are planning a flight to South America, make sure you know what to expect with baggage fees and regulations.

Of course, with the long list of potential international and specifically South American airlines in business these days, I can't be too specific and list off all the current fees and regulations for them all. That fact alone is a bit of a shame in itself. Travel shouldn't be so complicated.

Many large airlines will now only allow you to check one single piece of luggage for free (you usually still get a little carry-on as well). American Airlines are one good example, though they will allow 2 free checked bags if you are heading to Brazil or Peru. I'm not sure why the specific destinations makes a difference. Delta and JetBlue are the same, only allowing a single bag for free.

More generous airlines let you take on 2 bags before they start to tally up extra costs for you. British Airways, Taca and LAN Airlines allow for 2 checked bags. Copa Airlines is pretty unique. Even though they took the time to weigh and measure all of my bags, at least I was able to take on as many as I needed. They don't have limits on the number of checked baggage items, only on the weights and sizes.

These limits are all based on the standard economy class available with each airline. If you want to pay the big bucks to travel first- or business-class, then you will likely be allowed an extra bag or two.

HINT: Sometimes last minute flights with openings in 1st Class will allow a cheap upgrade. a couple of years ago US Air let me upgrade from economy to 1st class for only $50, which allowed me two extra bags. Ask at the check in desk.

You can sometimes find a bit of a loophole if you are travelling with children. In many cases, airlines allow for 1 piece of luggage for each child under 2. Depending on how much you need to carry for child, this may allow you a bit of extra space for your own stuff.

DANGER! - Since we live in Ecuador, but frequently travel to the States - we run into the problem that domestic US baggage policies are ore restrictive than international. For example, right now my wife flew from Guayaquil to Las Vegas. Later she has to go from Las Vegas to Orlando, then after attending a conference, she goes home (my wife has such a tough life). Well, the flights to and from Guayaquil fall under international rules - ie more and heavier bags and cheaper fees. But that Vegas to Orlando link is considered domestic. That's right, even though it is all the same booking the rules change. 

It depends on where you start and stop that day's trip. If either part is international, then you go by the international rules. However if both ends for the day are all in the States - then you pay more.

What makes it worse is that the fees for your next bag aren't cheap either. They used to be token costs but the price tag is getting serious. You can easily pay over $50 just to check one bag beyond your limit. In many cases, that just means your second suitcase. Similar fees are enforced if your bags (including any free bags) are over-sized or overweight. So, if you had 2 bags and you managed to have them both slightly too heavy, you could be charged $50 just for having a 2nd bag and then $50 each for both being overweight. that's an additional $150 that your flight is costing you.

Before any trip, always consult your airlines website to find out the current regulations. There is always some page hidden amongst the website pages where it lists out the rules in painful detail. These rules change all the time. So do not assume simply because you've flown one on one airline that you know all of the rules. Best to check each time.

And never just guess about the size or weight of your checked luggage or carry-ons. They likely will be weighed or measured and it will be a bit of a shock if you realize your baggage gets disallowed, or costs you a hundred dollars to take with you. Close isn't good enough, keep everything under the limits. My wife picked up a little hand-held weight scale and it always travels where ever we are about.

Quito Tababela Airport - Not Much of an Improvement

Quito now has a modern international airport, with the new Tababela replacing the old and cramped Mariscal Sucre. True, Tababela is new, modern and gorgeous to look at. I have to say that there is a lot more bad then good. Flying into and out of Quito is now a lot tougher.

The main hassle is just getting to the airport in the first place. They planned for future expansions of Quito, which was probably a smart move, except that it means the airport is more than an hour outside of the city if you're getting there by taxi. In fact, you'd be wise to plan on a 2-hour trip to be on the safe side. That can mean a price tag of nearly $30 on top of your wasted time.

You might wonder about all this when you realize that the Tababela airport is really just 14km away from Quito.  How can that mean so much extra travel time? You have to understand that the traffic between the airport and the city is extremely busy, the roads are not very direct and there is a particularly nasty bottle-neck at a narrow 30-year old bridge along the way. 

There are plans for a cheaper shuttle that will take travelers between Quito and the new Mariscal Sucre International Airport, which can save you a little money but won't help the waste of time on the roads. In fact, it will probably take longer than a regular taxi would.

Now, this isn't just a problem for the usual international traveller who is coming to Quito. It is starting to effect domestic travel around the city as well. Considering how far it is to drive to the new airport, people are choosing to just drive to their destinations instead of taking any short domestic flights. The Guayaquil Airport is becoming a more convenient arrival point for some routes and people are just avoiding Quito completely. Apparently, there has been a 30% drop in domestic travel through Mariscal Sucre International Airport, and it's only been in operation for less than a year. Not a good sign.

The location for the new Tababela Airport has led to other problems besides transportation. The low-lying site is prone to foggy weather, and you can imagine what that does to a major international airport. Delays are becoming more and more common, though this is usually only an impact during the December to May time frame. It might be a good idea to avoid this time of the year if you like knowing when your plane is going to land. At least plan with lots of extra time in hand in case of delays.

And even though this airport handles a large majority of all international flights to Ecuador, they decided to make the terminal smaller with the new airport. Not only is it smaller and has fewer seats for waiting passengers, there are fewer check-in counters too. I can't figure out the sense of actually shrinking an airport when dealing with such an international scale, but that seems to have been the case. Major airlines like KLM, Delta Air, United Airlines and Iberia all serve the new Tababela airport so you can imagine the crowds.

To be fair, they are trying to fix the transportation problems by improving the roadways between Quito and the airport, and construction is already underway to add new seats within the terminal. Perhaps in a little more time, the new Mariscal Sucre International Airport will actually live up to its potential. Until then, expect more than a few snags when travelling through Quito and plan for some extra transit time.